Leysin, Switzerland

Leysin is a fantastic alpine village nestled in the pre alps of Switzerland, perfect as our base to launch mountaineering trips into the swiss alps from.

Leysin has all grades of rock climbing on superb rock

Leysin has all grades of rock climbing on superb rock

Leysin has excellent local hikes pre and post mountaineering

Leysin has excellent local hikes pre and post mountaineering

Awesome mountain veiws from this 1500m veiw point - Leysin

Awesome mountain veiws from this 1500m veiw point – Leysin

Leysin is easy to get to via the fantastically efficient and reliable Swiss train system or road if you have a rental car.

It is about the same size as Wanaka, NZ – a small alpine type town with cafes, restaurants, sports stores, supermarket, a variety of nice accomodation options  and importantly central to the main mountaineering regions.

  • 1.5 hrs from chamonix
  • 2 hrs from Zermatt, Sass valley region
  • 2.5 hrs from the Grindelwald  region
  • 3hrs from getting to Italy – Grand Paradiso National Park

So perfect for a warm up acclimatisation hike,  rock session or via ferrata if required for skills acqusition , skills tune up or best weather option, and then ideal for launching off to the best venue for conditions, weather, your skills and objectives….

guided climb of Matterhorn

Helicopter action recently rennovating the Hornli hut -Matterhorn in the background

UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide

Me, Gary Dickson, IFMGA mountain guide on Swiss rock

Alpinism adventures, Leysin, Switzerland

Swiss alpine flora, on a rock climbing excursion near Leysin

Climbing in Europe, summer alpinism adventures

guided trekking

blue gentians and pink pretties on a hike in the Swiss Alps

Beginning of July and the coming two months will be gone in a flash. The European Alps season for Gary is booked out with him having given his time to ISM, the International School of Mountaineering with whom he started in 1997. That is, except one week in August, special project with Phil & Barb from Wanaka, more about this at a later stage. End of last month, Gaz went off to Orny hut, a favorite play ground: another hut higher up (Trient) great peaks all around, fabulous rock climbing on granite too and there is a real chance of finding your very own crystal.

L’Aiguille du Tour, 3540 m altitude and on the border of Switzerland-France was climbed by Phil, Ian and Lee plus our favorite mountain guide of course.They continued to Arolla and the wonderful Cabane des Dix, via Pas de Chèvre, ladders and awesome scenery. Mont Blanc de Cheilon was a goal with visibility zero and finally the summit of La Luette (3548m) the culmination of the week. Next is a trip to Grand Paradiso in Italy (starting with breakfast in Switzerland) and later in the week Mont Blanc, Chamonix – France.

More climbing and climbing instruction in Switzerland, Europe

Alpinism adventures, Leysin, Switzerland

On a rock climbing excursion near Leysin

Only a couple of days left this month and the Swiss National day on first of August will bring fireworks aplenty. There are many keen hikers and mountaineers very dedicated to create a bonfire on just about all the mountain tops. Heavy loads of wood have to be carried up hill along with yummy picnics and appropriate beverages to celebrate the occasion. While party mode is happening for many, climbing and mountaineering fun continues for others and mountain guide Gaz has started this week with Jim on a multi pitch route in Valais. High alpine climbing is on the program for the rest of the week, starting today at the cabane des Dix in the Swiss Alps. Continue reading

Mountaineering and other Alpinism activities in Europe

Alpine Fauna & Flora

A Poppy below the Tour d'Aï, Leysin

This last week in July has been absolutely beautiful weather wise and a number of alpinism activities have been going on for us: visiting the ancient alpine botanical garden high above Leysin, rock climbing and hiking plus climbing peaks over 4000 m altitude in the Swiss Alps. Earlier, Phil Melchior from Wanaka was on his sixth visit in Europe for alpine climbing with chief Gaz and he kindly made this photo album available. They stayed at the historical mountaineering hotel Rosenlaui, then climbed up to the Dossenhut. Continue reading

Alpinism in Europe

Autumn colors are here again and the Alpinism & Ski team is preparing to change location to the Northern Hemisphere. Alpinism in Europe is on the program, starting with ski touring – but a few projects at the base are to be finished before departure at the end of April. Another sustainable goal is achieved: double glazed windows are installed in the Alpinism Studio and a brand new econo heat panel is mounted on the wall. For those looking for charming and reasonably priced Wanaka Winter accommodation, still available are both house and studio, each ideal for a couple, so email Iris if you are interested.

Private Mountain Guiding – Alpinism at its best

Mountain Guiding - Alpinism

Private mountain guiding adventures

Swiss Alps private mountain guiding

Alpinism on a private mountain guiding trip

Climbing Dent Blanche

Climbing Dent Blanche - private mountain guiding

As summer in New Zealand is disappearing, our minds are turning to the mountain guiding season in Europe where we’ll be based again until end of August. This year, given that Gary is president of NZMGA at the moment, he’ll be representing his favorite country at the international mountain guides festival in France during the first week of May. Iris & Gaz look forward to their personal ski touring while there too. However, before the departure in six weeks, we have some more Alpinism in New Zealand on the program.

ISM – Alpinism instruction, mountaineering course

Mountaineering in Europe

Michael and James, a week with ISM, here on Tête Blanche

August last year, Thanks for the feed back and photos Michael:

“Dear Gary,

On behalf of James and myself, thank you very much for an excellent week at the Orny and Dix huts.  It was an ideal mix of instruction, rockclimbing, snow and ice experience, and mountaineering on mixed terrain.  Mt Blanc de Cheilon was a great way to end the week – a beautiful mountain and a superb, satisfying climb.  Thank you especially for your patience and for not only ensuring our safety but taking the time at every stage to explain clearly what we were doing and why.  We also greatly appreciated your steady pacing, which provided several first-hand examples of the hare and tortoise principle in practice; I can’t speak for James, but do not underestimate the achievement of getting me to the top of Mt Blanc de Cheilon in (just) under guide-book time, still breathing comfortably and with an acceptable pulse-rate.

Many thanks again.”  Michael Firth

Mountain guiding in Europe

James enjoying the views from the summit of Mont Blanc de Cheillon, Matterhorn in the background( above his helmet) - well done team!

Mountaineering with Gary Dickson, Alpinism & Ski Wanaka – NZ and Europe

Here some memorabilia of Alpinism during the last decade: youtube legendary Doug Ball who spent considerable time climbing with mountain guide Gary Dickson aka Gaz from January 2006 until August 2009.

Climbing Mt Aspiring

Doug Ball, 79, on Mt Aspiring, New Zealand

Doug Ball on the Fiescherhorn with mountain guide Gary Dickson

Doug at 80, climbing a few peaks over 4000m in a week in Switzerland

climbing in the Swiss Alps

Doug climbing high above the Dossenhütte, Kingspitze in the back ground

Doug had climbed Mt Cook Aoraki with his wife Peggy and many other peaks, but never Mt Aspiring. He got thwarted twice while climbing with Gaz because of conditions and weather but third time lucky and for a brief time he was considered the oldest climber to have sumited. He must have been an inspiration … more

Doug and Mt Tasman in the back ground

Based at Centennial hut for some more alpine climbing

He sent us these lines just recently …”I use a slide show of my mountaineering photos as a screen saver so that my memories are not lost but are refreshed every day. Alpinism and Ski certainly made an enormous difference to my life. What would have become of me if I had just thrown in the sponge after Peggy died?  I have so much to thank you both for and am not likely to ever forget it.”

keep going strong Doug

Climbing in the Alps – Europe

Second half of July here in  Europe – the  Alps with fresh snow all around. Rain galore for mother nature and good for the glaciers and mountaineering later on in the season,  but definitely making it tricky right now for us to go climbing rock  up high. We have  managed a bit of climbing between the showers on the lower rock climbing crags  and Gary prepared this photo album of the specialized climbing instruction a few weeks ago, enjoy.

Specialized training for Icelandic Mountain guides

Approaching the summit, Moint de Mourty, Switzerland

Some of the Icelandic team approaching the summit of Point De Mourty, Switzerland

Ivar, chief guide, Icelandic Mountain guides

Ivar, Chief guide for Icelandic Mountain Guides enjoying some swiss granite

Refreshing dip!

Some of the team take a refreshing dip after 8 days of training.

Latter half of June, and Gary and Chief guide of Icelandic Mountain Guides, Ivar, spent 8 days in Switzerland with 8 of IMG’s senior guides for some assessment of  Alpine trekking skills and knowledge and up-skilling/training of guiding on solid alpine rock.  Both the Zinal (Moiry Glacier) and Trient Plateau areas were used and provided perfect rock ridges for training missions and snowy passes and glaciers for assessing skills and knowledge.

The Icelandic team head back to Iceland for another busy season guiding on the dynamic guiding terrain of Iceland with hopefully ” a few more tools in their tool box”.

Gary having a few days off rock climbing with Iris on the local Swiss crags before heading away for a week with an ISM client.